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It came from heaven... KitKat - The 4th food group, discovered centuries ago by the ancient Rowntree hill-tribes of the Pennines, and long fabled for its life-giving properties. The Chocolate Crisp, as they knew it, has been through a long and delicious evolution, which dedicated confectohistorians have documented.

The result of tireless toil and unending, selfless research, these are the unexpurgated KitKat files.



The Journal
(adapted from ideas of A Mildly Apoplectic Man from Rural Oxfordshire)


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28 SEPT 07

KitKat Stick
5 stars What's a stick? It's a long, thin thing, isn't it. Which is made of chocolate and wafers and you get four in a box. These get five stars not only because they're very lo-o-ong, but because they've also travelled. Only available in vending machines up-country, it seems, I had these very kindly sent down by a fellow KitKat devotee.

20 SEPT 07

KitKat Ajiwai An
3 stars An - it's those sweet red beans again. Never the first choice for my sweet choice. But these are alright. But they're only alright. They're rescued by the fact that they taste more like a Caramac KitKat than those nasty beans.

20 SEPT 07

KitKat Waguri
4 stars The Japanese do love their seasonal products. And I particularly love seeing autumn products. It means that the long hot, humid summer is going to give way soon to the cooling relief of autumn. It can't come soon enough. It means I can start eating chocolate again.

This Japanese chestnut has a great rich flavour, but also a hint of last year's sweet Latte.

5 SEPT 07

KitKat Vanilla Beans
2 stars A favourite summer ice cream flavour, coming to a KitKat near you soon, they said. I was expecting rich vanilla and creamy white chocolate. Well, you get the white chocolate, but of vanilla flavour, there's no sign. Not a bit. Not even a little. See those flecks of vanilla pod so plentiful in the illustration? Yes, there's one or two of those, but they amount to little more than grit.

On top of the fact that the advertised flavour is completely absent, the white chocolate is of the grade that leaves your throat with an unpleasant burning sensation. A huge disappointment.

22 AUG 07

KitKat Orange & Chocolat
4 stars Ooh, lovely. Dark chocolate and orange - you can't go wrong, can you? Much richer than the midsummer offering, but for all the richness the flavour wasn't quite as strong as it might have been, so it loses one star. Could easily eat a bucketful though.

5 JULY 07

KitKat Kiwi
3 stars It all started so well. Can't fault it for green-ness and kiwi flavour, and it's very creamy. But a slight concern was that it was so sweet I almost went into shock. My chest tightened and I started to reach for the phone. Fortunately the feeling quickly passed. But still. You don't want all that, do you.

2 JULY 07

KitKat Raspberry
4 stars Haven't seen these around here - these were a gift gratefully received from a friend up north, who inexplicably couldn't bear them. The panel's decision was unanimous though - a very agreeable KitKat. Tastes pretty much the same as Exotic Tokyo, but probably at a fraction of the cost.

20 JUNE 07

KitKat Hoshi ni negai wo (Wish upon a star)
5 stars Another delicious Tanabata edition. (Want the low down on Tanabata ?)

This year's is different though. Not only is it banana-flavoured (milk chocolate 'n banana - everyone's a winner), but you get a whole bagful.

14 JUNE 07

KitKat Orange and KitKat Pineapple
Can only assume these were released together as a pair of summertime specials, as the packaging is so similar. They seem to be all over the country but there was no mention of them on the KitKat site. I'm guessing that these aren't limited edition and are going to be with us all summer...

5 stars...which, if you're into orange, is a very good thing indeed. There's usually not too much KitKat entertainment around through the long hot summer, but if the kombini's going to have Orange KitKats on offer right through, I'll be a happy man. And the orange is really rather summery. It's not the rich orange oil that flavours, say, a Terry's chocolate orange. It's tangy and sharp. Top marks.

3 stars...but with the sun, you gotta take a little rain. I'm torn on the Pineapple. Maybe it's just me. I'm not a great fan of pineapple. In fact, sticking it in a KitKat is probably about the only way you'll get me near it. And then of course there's the colour, which brought back terrible memories of the hideous monstrosity in the middle of this photograph. But while it smells vaguely of pineapple, it doesn't taste much of anything you could put your finger on.

13 JUNE 07

KitKat Yubari Melon (again)
4 stars Well, apart from being Nestlé's first significant investigation of the important question "Can KitKat save the world?", it's also the third time we've seen a Yubari Melon KitKat in the space of 18 months.

And for that, I'm tempted to mark it down. But it's actually the best-tasting and best-looking of the three the panel have sampled. Can't say as I'm too fussed about having another one though.

24 MAY 07

KitKat Marugoto Lemon
5 stars The Lemon and nothing but the whole Lemon. I took the risk of buying two bags of these minikats. The risk being that they would either be what I had been looking forward to, working myself up to, praying for - namely, something akin to The Fabled Lemon Cheesecake Kitkat of Yore. Ooooor, they would be another sad contender for "tastes like urinal mints".

But rejoice! For these are, as the panel mumbled, spraying crumbs all over, "very good indeed". Less yoghurty than TFLCKoY, but more lemony zing. And I bought two bags. That makes me happy. Or it's the sugar rush. One of the two.

16 MAY 07

KitKat Exotic Kyushu Sakura
4 stars Or Exotic Sakura Assort, to give it its proper title. Each of the four regions now has a Sakura version of the Exotic collection, meaning half the box contains the "caramel white chocolate with orange and mango" that dissolved my teeth before, and the other half is those delicate pink cherry-flavoured ones.

All rather excessive, if you ask me. I'm not quite sure what the idea is behind this version, but when it comes to entirely unsuitable and random flavour combinations that leave us wanting less, it's what we've come to expect from anything with Takagi's name on it.

16 MAY 07

KitKat Exotic Tokyo Black and White
5 stars Now there are two versions of Exotic Tokyo to choose from when you meander through the giftshops of the capital's airports - the yellow-boxed edition, containing rich milk chocolate and raspberry flavour, and now the blue-boxed white chocolate version.

And I know it's going to upset some people, but I reckon the white one is far better. The raspberry flavour creme filling clashes with the milk chocolate in comparison to the match with the white.

Come on, say it with me now. I may finally have made my peace with white chocolate.

24 APR 07

KitKat Maccha Milk
5 stars If the original green tea KitKat wasn't delicious enough for you, here's Maccha Milk. The milk not only gives it a cool, creamy texture, it also takes the edge off the green tea bitterness.

I've been everywhere to find this. That gold stamp on the box roughly translates as "in frustratingly short supply".

22 APR 07

KitKat Strawberry
4 stars Another strawberry, you ask? Found this one tucked away in the discount store. It's a multi-pack of minis, but unlike the last one, this one's milk chocolate. Smells very promising but the flavour doesn't match the aroma. Still scoffable, mind.

22 APR 07

KitKat Petit Cacao 72%
3 stars Bite-size pieces, but with the cocoa solids cranked up to nearly three quarters, this one was too rich for me. Fans of 'fine' chocolate should love it though.

22 APR 07

KitKat Cacao 61%
5 stars High cocoa solids chocolate for a very high-class tea break. Not only very tasty, but has the added bonus of not melting in your hand.

13 APR 07

KitKat Little
3 stars Oh dear. Running a bit short of imagination? They surely don't think we'll fall for this, do they? Rewind almost exactly a year. (Do they not realise I'm cataloguing all of this?)

10 APR 07

KitKat Torokeru Zeitaku - Brandy & Orange
5 stars Now here's something - a very special edition KitKat, just as special as the gold-embossed box promises. Two individually-wrapped double-sized fingers filled with brandy cream, the aroma and the flavour of brandy and orange complement each other perfectly. So obviously, despite the gold, this isn't from Takagi's kitchen.

19 MAR 07

KitKat Hokkaido Milk
3 stars Normally you'd get excited if there were 2 new KitKats released on the same day. But a white KitKat's a white KitKat. And even though it's not the duff sort of white chocolate to cause uproar on the streets of rural Oxfordshire, it's just as sweet. Once is enough, thanks.

19 MAR 07

KitKat Koshian Maccha
4 stars Koshian is a kind of red bean paste confection. Not my cup of tea at all, sweet beans. But in fact this Kat tastes pretty much like the original green tea KitKat (though much lighter green in colour), but possibly even a little creamier. Handy big bag too.

13 FEB 07

KitKat White Peach
4 stars It's going to go one of two ways with peach, isn't it. It's either going to be the subtle fruity way, or it's going to go the sickly-Archer's-schnapps kind of way. It wasn't love-at-first-smell, I have to say. In fact it reminded of late teenage alcoholic excess and a particular evening crouched in a bus stop being 'tired and emotional'.

Fortunately it's mostly bluff, and my flashbacks weren't too severe. I'm not really selling this as a 4-star experience, am I? It's really rather nice, I promise.

29 JAN 07

KitKat Blood Orange
5 stars Oh happy day oh happy day oh happy da-ay oh happy day for it's an orange-flavoured plain chocolate KitKat. My nearest and dearest know what a messy effect a Terry's Chocolate Orange can have on me. This is very much like that. With a KitKat. Today was indeed A Good Day.

15 JAN 07

KitKat Yubari Melon
3 stars If it rings a bell, that's because we had the Hokkaido Yubari Melon Kitkat about a year ago. That one was a rather alarming fluorescent orange colour, though tasted smashing.

Someone's returned to their senses, 'cos this one's milk chocolate.

Not as hideously sweet as its glowing predecessor, but have to say I've not been tempted to go out and buy another one.

15 JAN 07

KitKat Choco Banana
5 stars *drool* Who would've thought that artificial banana flavour could taste like this? Astoundingly good gear, this. Not only that, but they decorated it too! Now if you'll excuse me, I've got to get down the konbini and stock up on these.

5 JAN 07

KitKat Sakura Saku Yo
4 stars The Cherry Blossom season's just around the corner? Who are Nestlé trying to kid? There's probably a Ministry of the Interior handbook that says when sakura season officially starts, and I'll bet it doesn't say January 1st.

Anyway this year's Sakura Kat is a little different from last year's. A little. The packet's got a cherry on it. Didn't have that last year. And it's a bit more cherry-y too.

5 JAN 07

KitKat Mini Kouhaku pack
3 stars These are very much along the same lines as last year's 'inspirational' white and milk chocolate kats. Except there's only one message this year - Kitto, sakura saku yo. By Kit Kat - which I'm informed means "Your blossom is blossoming. Probably." Hmm. Call me picky, but that's not terribly inspirational, if you ask me.

28 DEC 06

KitKat Fuyu no ajiwai Ichigo
3 stars You wait a whole month, and what do they bring out? 'Another kind of strawberry'. The other ones are still in the shops! But this is 'Tasty Winter Strawberry'. But it's been so long since those last ones, I can't remember if it tastes exactly the same or not. Probably does.

24 NOV 06

KitKat Nameraka Ichigo
3 stars 'Smooth' strawberry, it says. Up against last year's Tsubu Tsubu Ichigo (what's so strawberry about November?), this one lacks the sharpness of its predecessor. But as it smells similar to strawberry-flavoured Nesquik milkshake powder, no surprises that it's really sweet. Smooth means average, it seems.

11 NOV 06

KitKat Blueberry
4 stars Ah, nice fruity mini KitKat, and milk chocolate (Ah, hisashiburi!) Couldn't give it the full 5 though, cos there was just the vaguest reminder of KitKat Grape, and nobody likes to be reminded of that.

8 NOV 06

KitKat Hokkaido Azuki
3 stars Red azuki beans - one of the main ingredients in many Japanese sweets and desserts. Which I avoid. Beans and sugar. The lines get horribly blurred here. It's too complex for simple tastes like mine. The KitKat though, not exactly white, more like mauve with deep red speckles, looks good. Too sweet though.

30 OCT 06

KitKat Exotic Kyushu
5 stars This KitKat reminds me of a celebrity. Not a particular celebrity, but a type. The type that comes from a down-to-earth, humble background, goes on to worldwide fame and fortune and in the process goes irretrievably barking mad.

So immediately you detect the hand of nutter gourmet Takagi. And here he extends his 'Exotic' series to us oft-neglected southerners with "caramel white chocolate with orange and mango". A bit like when a child comes in from the garden and offers you a mud pie made with real mud, it catches you unawares, you smile and say thank you very much. Well, not much like that actually, because these are really rather edible, though they'll test even the sweetest tooth.

28 OCT 06

Crispy Monogatari Maron
4 stars You wouldn't notice at first, but looking more closely at the naked wafers, you suddenly realise - oh my god, it's a naked KitKat! And the blurb confirms it. It's just the wafers and the creme filling. And though that makes it sound like those dodgy, dusty old Blue Riband biscuits, banish such thoughts from your mind. This is quality schmutter! Bit odd, mind.

23 OCT 06

KitKat Mini Waguri
4 stars Another one from the Autumn collection, and you'd better have your sweet tooth in for this one. Waguri is Japanese chestnut, and while I can't say I'm really au fait with what that's supposed to taste like, I can at least say that it's the right colour. And when not left to melt in the car, delicious too.

19 OCT 06

KitKat Chocolatier Maccha & Kinako
KitKat Chocolatier Strawberry & Nuts

3 stars Warning: TAKAGI may cause inflated claims and disappointment

Yes, Patissier Takagi's back, people, so it's time to don your protective anti-marketing specs. These are "Premium-type KitKats for adults", he says. In the green corner, "Ujimaccha, Kinako, Ume, selected by Patissier TAKAGI". Aaaand in the pink corner, "Strawberry, Pistachio, Almond, Thyme, selected by Patissier TAKAGI".

*sigh*

Green tea. Strawberry. Not bad, but come on...

15 OCT 06

KitKat Pumpkin
4 stars KitKat's special Halloween edition is a peculiar little number. The panel's opinion was divided. One tester murmured "Ooh, pumpkin!" when she tasted them, but I think she had been overawed by the Power of Suggestion. To me, these tasted very similar to KitKat Exotic Tokyo (see July 16), which was billed as being raspberry flavoured. Very tasty, but I knocked off a star for simply not delivering on its promises.

4 stars And if the Mini is too much for you to cope with (you delicate creature, you) there is also KitKat Baby Pumpkin, tiny cubes of even less spooky Halloween goodness.

08 OCT 06

KitKat Uji Kintoki
3 stars Uji Kintoki is a dessert of shaved ice drizzled with green tea syrup topped with red bean paste. Which I don't think I would ever find myself eating, given the choice of that or any other dessert. As for the KitKat, it's not so different from the regular green tea KitKat (with those creamy Caramac undertones). None too exciting, but not bad.

16 SEPT 06

KitKat Bitter
5 stars Eeeh, luxury. Fine and dark, very high cocoa solids. Not for wasting on the kids, and not for scoffing. Treat it with some respect.

16 SEPT 06

KitKat Nasu Kougen Miruku
5 stars 5 stars?! For a white one? None of the usual cloying sweetness of white chocolate. In fact very smooth and similar to milk chocolate. Also, comes disguised as a spotty cow.

04 SEPT 06

KitKat Big Breaks (UK)
3 stars The most terrifying KitKat on the market. A pivotal moment in KitKat research - proof that there is such a thing as too much KitKat. Tasty, but unnecessary.

31 AUG 06

KitKat Ringo
3 stars Very apple-y, but way too sweet, the second half sat forgotten in the fridge for a fortnight. Which is a rare occurence indeed.

31 AUG 06

KitKat i-Stick
4 stars Goodness! A KitKat to enjoy straight from the freezer? Extremely tasty, filled with chocolate cream, but it's tiny and expensive, considering.

31 AUG 06

KitKat Editions Tiramisu (UK)
5 stars A bit smaller than a regular Chunky, so will leave you wanting, needing more. Very special indeed.

31 AUG 06

Whole pile of UK KitKats
Look at them all!

3 stars First is the plain chocolate, which was just OK. Just didn't seem to have enough flavour.

4 stars Next is the MintKat, which would have got five stars if only it had been plain chocolate instead of milk.

5 stars Then the now famous KitKat Caramac - the nostalgic marriage of what were Rowntree's KitKat and Mackintosh's Caramac. Faultless. Peerless. Tons in my fridge.

4 stars And finally the Chunky Peanut Butter. Another surprise. Wouldn't choose it over other KitKats but extremely tasty nonetheless.

19 JUL 06

KitKat Petit
4 stars Regular bits of KitKat, just smaller. Loses a star because, being right next to the regular KitKats on the shelf, it just seemed a bit pointless.

13 JUL 06

KitKat Exotic Tokyo
5 stars A special edition, and given to me as an omiyage, these were delicious. Plain chocolate and raspberry minikats. Gets the 5th star just for the whole unapologetic presentation.

22 JUN 06

KitKat Wish upon a Star
5 stars The panel feels it can speak with authority on this one, having scoffed so many of them. This special Tanabata edition was rich and creamy, and came with its own milky way. More please.

14 JUN 06

KitKat Annin doufu
1 star This might get 5 stars if you like the dessert annin doufu. Unfortunately I don't, and considering the hints of coconut and Play-Doh, I didn't even finish it.

28 APR 06

KitKat Fruit Parfait
5 stars The Liberace of the KitKat world, the Fruit Parfait gets 5 stars for sheer audacity. Dangerously sweet, and way too many flavours screaming for attention, and yet the panel was won over. I defy anyone to eat more than one, though.

14 APR 06

KitKat Mild Bitter
4 stars The word 'mild' sums this one up. It passed without really leaving too much impression on the panel. We're therefore going to give it the benefit of the doubt and give it 4 stars instead of 3. Because it was probably pretty close to a regular KitKat. And you can't knock that.

25 MAR 06

KitKat Baby
3 stars A little novelty KitKat action. Tiny chunks of KitKat, eminently munchable, but nowt special really.

12 MAR 06

Le Patissier Takagi KitKat French Bretagne Milk
2 stars You wait two months for a new KitKat and it's another Takagi disappointment. This one firmly sewed up Takagi's reputation for dressing up something substandard as special. It was no more than a white chocolate KitKat. Like being sold plonk as champagne, the panel were outraged.

22 JAN 06

Le Patissier Takagi KitKat Noir
2 stars It's yer fella Takagi messing around again. This one was all fur coat. Plain chocolate, dusted with cocoa powder. Dry and tasteless, a total mismatch of flavours. Very unSpecial Edition.

19 JAN 06

Caramel Chunky
4 stars From the UAE, an omiyage from a friend. In Arabic, no less. Took a star off because the chocolate wasn't as nice.

18 JAN 06

KitKat Inspirations
5 stars This is what KitKat is all about it Japan. The lucky charm KitKat for schoolkids doing their exams, these ones greeted you with little inspirational messages on them when you opened your bento box. Aside from that, regular KitKats. 'Nuff said.

16 JAN 06

KitKat Café Latte
5 stars Aaaaah, coffee AND chocolate. More please. Sublime.

15 JAN 06

KitKat Sakura
4 stars Reckon Nestlé were pretty proud of this one. They got it into the shops long before the cherry trees blossomed and it was available for ages. Enjoyed a few of these, but a little too sweet (and let's face it, unchocolatey) for the full 5 stars.

06 JAN 06

KitKat Maple Syrup
5 stars The first new Kat of the year was a revelation. White chocolate, and yet I found myself making repeated trips to the konbini for more. I consider it a crime that they discontinued this one.

23 DEC 05

KitKat Hokkaido Yubari Melon
3 stars Certainly captured the flavour of Yubari melon, but unbelievably sweet and very off-putting glow-in-the-dark orange colour could have done with being toned down a bit. A lot.

20 DEC 05

KitKat Yogurt
5 stars Probably only worth 4 stars really, but gets extra credit for being edible white chocolate. Very yogurty.

20 NOV 05

KitKat Budou
1 star It wasn't really as bad as Luscious Lime, but really only deserves its one star as it got almost everything wrong. You could have forgiven the garish and fiddly packaging if there had been some kind of reward at the end of it. But when you realise with your first mouthful that the alleged grape flavour's another toilet cleaner, it becomes all the more disappointing that it's a multi-pack.

19 NOV 05

KitKat Tsubu Tsubu Ichigo
5 stars With 'real strawberry pieces', and elicited cries of "Oishisouuuuu!" from the panel before the box was even opened. And proved to be just as oishii as it looked. Went back to the shop and bought more.

19 NOV 05

Le Patissier Takagi KitKat Passion Fruit
3 stars The beginning of my 'differences' with Takagi-san. Touted as a luxury KitKat, but had an acidic flavour which was only very vaguely passion fruity anyway. Not bad, but loses points for failing to live up to the hype.

17 MAY 05

Assortment of UK Editions and others
5 stars We need to break this down a bit. First, the Editions - a caramel and a Seville Orange - both faultless. But you'll also notice in the middle of that photograph...

1 star ...the abomination labelled 'Luscious Lime'. The single star is because I didn't envisage needing a 'no stars' rating. Tasted like it would probably keep your toilet free of germs for weeks.

22 NOV 04

KitKat Uji Maccha
4 stars High marks straight away simply for being green. More points for more than a faint hint of Caramac. But that does rather overpower any green tea flavour.